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TTL connections on GLC24064
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:13 am
by SaintAK
The manual doesn't really go in depth into this subject. What do i need to solder? Once it is soldered can I interface it with my com1 on my computer port or would i have to unsolder and resolder connections. Also do i need to move jumpers around? This is all the manual really says about this:
Note that this device complies with the EIA232 standard in that it uses signal levels from
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:42 am
by Michael Zoran
RS-232 is the standard for COM1. If you want to connect the display to COM1 the manual is saying that you don't need to make any modifications.
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:34 am
by SaintAK
I apologize if i sound confusing. I'm hooking this LCD up to an atmega16. But I might still want to connect it up with my computers com1 for download bitmaps and such. The atmega is running on TTL levels.
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 1:55 pm
by Aniso
I think the most sensible thing I can say about this is "Its a pain in the butt". I have in the past soldered straight jumper block posts on boards for this purpose. I have not needed it in some time, but I heard a rumor that at the very least, the size of the solder jumpers and the spacing of jumper blocks might match well enough to make it a viable plan of action.
Anyone know if this is true?
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 2:49 pm
by Jon
Hi SaintAK,
Sorry for the trouble, I'm in the process of updating the GLC24064 manual as we speak so I will have to make sure I pay specific attention to this portion. (thank you for brining it to my attention)
In order to communicate via TTL (through the RS-232 connector) please reference the attached picture. The jumpers in this picture are set to the default values. You must remove the solder from jumper 1 and 3, and place solder on jumpers 2 and 4.
Edit: Hey Aniso, posted at the same time as you. But I couldn't say wether that would work either way.
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 3:08 pm
by Aniso
From your photo, it doesn't look very inviting to that solution. I've done it, but pins sticking up from the board held in place by nothing but solder - especially in twos - is a little ugly...
I believe that some of our other boards have a slightly better layout for that.
You could, I suppose, run wires out to a piano switch crazy glued to the edge of the board - done that too...
Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 6:48 pm
by SaintAK
I really do appreciate all the help. I've decided to go with a MAX233 chip. I've been working in my school lab for the last couple of days trying to get the baud rate to match. It's been a pain to say the least. It should be easy but every project needs its problems, and I'm just glad i was able to work it out. Thanks for all the help. lata